Types of belay devices This device, along with the belayer’s quick “braking hand,” ensures the rope stays taut, safeguarding the climber. May 30, 2023 · a free “Belay Experience” clinic on the last Monday of every month, or ; a custom 15-30 minute “Belay Experience” clinic when scheduled more than 48 hours in advance. Aug 24, 2018 · The Smart 2. 9mm. Belay devices aren’t the only vital gear you need while climbing. A popular example of the former is the Black Diamond ATC , the latter the Petzl GriGri . Different types of belay devices are designed for various climbing disciplines—sport climbing, trad climbing, and mountaineering, among others. Aug 3, 2023 · The belay loop on a harness provides a place for attaching a belay device and thereby the rope to the belayer. As with all assisted-breaking belay devices you should always keep a hand on the dead rope - they are "assisted breaking" not "auto-lock"! See the . Broadly speaking, there are two types of belay device: manual braking devices and assisted braking devices. You may also do standard double rope rappels (using a single rope through an anchor). They can be used sport or trad climbing and are extremely versatile. Friction Only Assisted braking belay devices automatically lock down on the rope to help the belayer catch a climber’s fall. This is essential for the majority of multi-pitch climbers. Each device is made for certain climbing needs. The latter can be broken down further into active ABDs and passive ABDs. Assisted braking devices (ABDs): These devices provide automatic assisted braking, making them ideal for lead climbing and top-roping. Filter. Exploring the Different Types of Belay Devices: Your Key to Adventure Nov 9, 2021 · There are three types of belay devices: Tubular belay devices are the most common. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). Choosing the best belay device isn’t just about preference—it’s about safety, durability, and functionality. They emerged as the go-to belay device in the early 90s. Here’s what this guide will cover: Belay Device Types. The two main belay device types include automatic belay devices and manually operated belay devices. Belay devices come in two main types: Tubular Devices: The Black Diamond ATC and Petzl Reverso are popular. Skip to content Free Shipping on Gear Orders Over $50 - Continental U. Accessing these stationary auto belays for required inspections can be difficult and lighting is often poor, resulting in missed or incomplete inspections. Note that belaying a lead climber is quite different between a tubular and a brake-assist device, so you need to learn and master the technique for your device. Nov 2, 2023 · Carabiners for Belaying. Magnetic Auto Belay Devices are a type of magnetic belay device that is used to for braking purposes, one auto belay system uses magnets. Read on for a quick guide to different types of rappel devices. Figure-of-eight devices 4. You’ll find out exactly what belay devices are, including a quick overview of each type of belay device by category. Jul 11, 2024 · Styles of Belay Devices. Correct use of the climbing rope is easy to visually check, but requires a lot of attention from the belayer. Four different climbers have played the role of lead reviewer of belay devices over that time, and it is remarkable how little variance they have The tube type belay devices / descenders are versatile devices for the safe belay and descent of single rope and double rope. This system, which underlies belay devices with a 'well' (or bucket/basket) design, is less versatile but very popular amongst Italian climbers. 6; Close. Currently, there are three main categories of belay devices: dynamic belay Jul 26, 2024 · This buying guide offers advice for anyone wanting to purchase a new belay device, or add to their existing collection. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. Some belay devices work better with certain diameters of rope (the tested rope diameter range is listed on the side of the belay device – though often the smoothest operation is in the middle of the range). As you might know, there are many different types of belay devices and each one of them will have specific instructions that you must learn and practice before using it. If I somehow manage to skip an important category, feel free to give me a heads up. A Tubular Belay device. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. The standard for belaying these days is a brake assisted belay device (required in many gyms). These belay devices feature 2 slots for your rope, allowing you to belay, rappel, or climb using a two-rope system. However general tests conducted on various types of belay devices show their holding power is similar. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the May 10, 2019 · Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. When rock climbing, it is important to have the right belay device. Here's a breakdown of the main types of belay devices and their features: Types of Belay Devices. 1 or 2 ropes You can belay with a single rope or double/half/twin ropes. There are three types of auto belay systems: hydraulic auto belays, magnetic braking auto belays, and friction braking (Clutch-bearing) auto belays. S. 4 days ago · Where, when, and what type of locker to use in any given situation is up to you, but the most common uses while climbing are on your belay and rappel device, as a master point of an anchor, as the connection point for a Personal Anchoring System (PAS), and to construct equalized multi-pitch anchors. The original belay devices, such as the Stitch plate, were extremely simple and easy to use. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. May 28, 2024 · Types of belay devices Tubular Devices. Unlike traditional tube-style devices, these gizmos actually help the belayer hold a falling or hanging climber. These are designed to slow down the rope, and require you to help assist in stopping a climber when they fall by pulling down on the rope. Three of the most popular methods are listed below: Using a single rope rappel with your partner, using just one belay device; Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four different carabiners Jul 6, 2023 · There is a place and a time to use most types of belay devicesbut there are compelling reasons to prefer assisted breaking devices over manual breaking devices. , Petzl Grigri 2) or the geometry of the device (e. Includes products by RescueTECH, ISC, Traverse Rescue, Anthron, CMI. Mar 27, 2019 · Belay devices: what types? To address each use and every user, Petzl offers two types of device: assisted-braking belay devices; belay/rappel devices; Assisted-braking belay devices. We’ve sorted this guide from the most popular to least popular belay device styles used by climbers today. We explain the different types there is and offer a description of every belay device we stock. Kong Chuy Descender Belayer - 2 Colors The Chuy is a belay and rappel device that works on ha. com Dec 16, 2022 · What are the types of belay devices? In this article, we talked about five common categories for belay devices. How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing The store will not work correctly when cookies are disabled. So there you have it - a comprehensive list of all the types of belay device available on the market today! Dec 5, 2024 · There are three basic types of belay devices on the market: Tubes, Auto Blocking Tubes, and Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. 3 Types of Assisted Locking Belay Devices. However, this type cannot be used to belay a lead climber (it would need to be supplemented by a Tubik, for example). Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Trango Vergo Belay Device is an assisted-braking belay device designed to bring new levels of safety and ergonomics to rock climbing belaying. What is a Belay Device? A belay device is a critical tool for climbers, acting as a friction brake to manage the climbing rope. If the rope is too thick, it may not feed through the belay device properly. 00 Unit price / per Jan 19, 2023 · Rather than a sewn loop, they incorporate a metal device similar to an assisted braking belay device that pinches the lanyard and allows for more precise adjustment. The Grigri is are arguably the safest belay device for beginners. Extremely advantageous, it allows self-locking abseiling and it can be used in three different belay modes, depending on the terrain. They are - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope; Easy to use: - Easy to install the rope with diagram engraved on the belay device It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. They rely entirely on the belayer to stop the rope passing through the device. Perfect for rope rescue systems, belay gear, and climbing applications. They typically consist of a metal or plastic plate with one or two slots for threading the rope through. There are several types of belay devices available, each with its unique design and functionality. e. There are three main types of belay devices, the tubular ATC, the auto-locking belay device and the semi-assisted belay devices. Generally, different types of belay devices are aimed at different activities. Great for High Angle Rescue, Confined Space Rescue, Water Rescue, Search and Rescue. Non-assisted braking belay devices are among the oldest and most effective tools used in climbing. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. These belay devices trigger a mechanism that clamps the rope in the rope channel in the event of a jerky load or manual activation, thus blocking it with support. A belay device is a mechanical device that is attached to the belayer’s harness and is used to take in the slack rope. Oct 8, 2023 · Over time, belay devices have changed greatly, evolving into tools that simultaneously provide maximum safety and ease of use. Needless to say, that there are several brands and models out there, but they are all essentially, all the same. g. The product line from the Italian brand Climbing Technology has four main types: 1. the climber clipped into the quickdraws like a normal lead climb on a sport climbing route), where the device was fixed to the bottom of the route. This type of device – also known as a self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking device - is designed to react to a sudden force by locking down on the rope to catch and hold a fall. ATC. In the case of rappelling, companies design some belay devices for a controlled descent specifically. Multi-use devices (modifications of the tube-shaped with an auto-block) 3. Assisted Braking (14) Cam Assisted Blocking (1) Single Chamber (12) Tube (19) Material. Belay Assist (2) Carabiner Figure 8 devices. Product type. Assisted Braking Belay Devices; Tube-Style Belay Devices; Semi-automatic tube-style devices; The Best Belay Device for Beginners Mar 21, 2024 · Most US commercial gyms have some sort of regulation or restriction on the type of belay device you can use. It’s definitely the best beginner belay device with a tube-style design and you’ll see it on most experienced climbers’ harnesses. 5 out of 5 stars 230 2 offers from $1499 $ 14 99 The earliest type of self-belay device used was the ubiquitous prusik knotted sling used by climbers. So let's start with a general classification that will serve to better define the different categories of belay devices currently on the market. There are many different devices. For the sake of simplicity, we’ll be covering belaying with a tube-style device, like an ATC, in this article. The standard for Rope Rescue Operations, CMI Mini Rescue Rack w/ Hyperbar & Double Hyperbar, CMI NFPA Rappel Rack, CMI Rescue Rack, CMI Rescue Rack & Rescue Rack w/ Hyperbar, Petzl Rappel Rack, 5 Bar Most belay devices fit into the generic type, they are design for one or two ropes and require the belayer to be actively involved and concentrating on belaying the climber. The ATC Guide does all three, and it comes at a low weight and low price. Conclusion. Tube-style devices: Simple and lightweight, these devices are suitable for beginners. The descend eight (Figure 8 device) is a descender / belay device ideal for flat descents and dynamic belaying. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. A running belay is a variant of the dynamic belay in which the top anchor point is attached to a horizontal cable using a trolley. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. Choosing the best one for your needs starts with understanding how they work. Feb 22, 2020 · There are some disadvantages to these types of devices, such as increased weight, high cost, and decreased versatility, but overall the advantage of having the assisted brake far outweighs the minimal drawbacks. Traditional belay devices are the most commonly used type of belay solution in rock climbing. My first impressions using these devices were so good that I bought 2 Mega Juls and 2 Micro Jules. There are two types of assisted braking belay devices. They can be used as a normal belay device too. Even though guide mode belay devices are auto-locking, you should always keep hold of the brake rope. May 28, 2021 · The lanyard is simply looped into the gadget as you climb by a retraction spring. We have aluminum and steel figure 8's as well as rescue racks, squeeze type descenders and tuba belays. You’ve generally got two main types of belay device to choose from: non-assisted braking and assisted braking. Therefore, I won’t even attempt to create an article that comments on all of them. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. This article covers belay with a tubular device. When belaying for top rope or lead climbing, a small belay device is clipped onto the belayer's harness which allows them to control the rope. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber and ensure that they do not The choice of belay device depends on what type of climbing / mountaineering you plan to do. Tubers can have one slot for single rope or two slots that can also be used with twin/double rope and suitable for abseiling. PETG (1) Quickdraw Type. Jan 4, 2024 · Learn about the 5 main styles of belay devices for climbing, from tube to assisted braking, and their pros and cons. After six months of use we give the verdict here, especially with a view to how it suits UK trad climbing. To learn more about assisted-braking belay devices, refer to the corresponding subsection of this article. Tube-Style (ATC): named after Black Diamond's Air Traffic Controller (ATC), these devices are versatile and commonly used. Types of belay device Speaking broadly, there are two categories of belay device: assisted-braking devices and non-assisted-braking devices. Jan 5, 2018 · The purpose of this post is to demystify auto belays and offer some auto belay beta that will help you better understand the technology behind each type. Assisted-braking devices are generally safer when used properly and require less physical effort from the belayer – especially when the climber spends a lot of time hanging. It is crucial to check that your belay device is compatible with the type of rope (e. If you choose a different type of device than the one you were originally taught to use, then you must learn and practice techniques with that new device. , Wild Country SRC) to apply braking force to a rope ATC-XP Belay Device – Black Diamond Mar 27, 2019 · Belay devices: what types? To address each use and every user, Petzl offers two types of device: assisted-braking belay devices; belay/rappel devices; Assisted-braking belay devices. Devices. A belay device is a critical tool for climbing safety, providing friction on the climbing rope to help secure and protect the climber. Mar 19, 2025 · HOATER's belay devices, available in various styles for enhanced safety, versatility, and ease of use. We cover lead belay with a tubular device in this article. These devices essentially create a lot of friction when used correctly to help arrest a fall. The wrong device can make the climb more difficult and even dangerous. The belay device is a tool climbers use to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower their climbing partner. Steel and Aluminum Rack-type descenders/belay devices. Most gyms only allow belaying with a brake assist belay device. The hydraulic auto belay was the first of its kind, but was expensive and bulky, taking up lots of space behind the climbing wall. They can be used for both belaying and rappelling. 3 days ago · Yes, you can belay rock climbers with a figure 8 device. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Tube belay devices and the ATC Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. These devices are identical in design, but the Mega Jul is designed for ropes of diameter from 7. Jan 17, 2024 · Traditional Belay Devices. Apr 26, 2022 · Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. By using a belay device, even a smaller, less muscular belayer can easily Aug 27, 2023 · Whichever type of belay device you buy, you’ll need a basic locking carabiner to clip the device to the belay loop on your harness. The history of belay devices really came into focus in the 1970s, almost an entire century after climbing was considered a sport (1880’s in England). There are many different types of belay devices available, so it’s important to choose one that is compatible with your climbing style and the type of rope you’re using. Belay devices—no matter the design—all use friction (created by a bend in the rope) to hold tension and keep the climber from falling. Dynamic belay devices are so called, because they enable dynamic belaying without the involvement of the body. This style of device is most commonly referred to as the “ATC”, which is Black Diamond’s version of the mechanism. For any type of roped climbing, a belay device is an essential piece of kit. Other Belay Devices. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. The second group of belay devices includes assisted braking belay devices. Jun 9, 2023 · Additionally, some devices can be converted into assisted-braking belay devices for securing one or two climbers on multipitch climbs. Types of Rappel Devices: The different types of rappel devices will affect how fast you can rappel. , single) you are climbing with. Active assisted braking belay devices contain moving parts that engage Mar 16, 2022 · Belay devices help by increasing friction to the point where the rope cannot move through the device. Principle: when the climber falls, the device pivots on the carabiner, the rope tightens, and the cam pinches and blocks the rope. 9 to 8. The three most common types include magnetic, friction, and hydraulic. You can also belay a second climber using a plate-type belay device. 2) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices. There are three main belay device types that operate slightly differently to modulate the friction and braking power applied to a climbing rope. While traditional auto belays use a top roping format with the device hanging from the top of the route, in 2021, a new type of auto belay–the lead auto belay–was developed that used a lead climbing format (i. Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. How Do You Rappel Without A Belay Device? There are several different ways you can rappel without a traditional belay device. The one-direction camming auto-locking belay device (the oldest of the locking devices), the semi-assisted locking devices and the more recent to the market, bi-directional camming auto-locking belay device. See full list on rei. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above. If the climber falls or reaches the top, the Auto Belay immediately arrests the fall and lowers the climber safely and automatically to the ground. And we talk about those nuances below. It is especially important to belay lead climbers dynamically, so they are not stopped too abruptly in case of a fall. If they fall, the device will lock by itself almost instantly. It functions similar to tube-style belay devices but offers superior bite when the leader falls or hangs for a while on the rope. Tubular belay devices have several advantages. Dec 15, 2020 · Setting up a Belay Device for Belaying. Lowering vs Rappelling May 26, 2022 · The type of device we recommend largely has to do with the type of climbing situation you find yourself in. These will be clinics designed to help experienced belayers get qualified instruction using a new type of belay device based on the instructions of the manufacturer. Features: CMI, Rescue Tech. However, eventually, manufacturers have integrated several features to deal with the main issues with every device, making your belay experience that much more convenient. Once you know and understand how to belay with one, you should be able to apply these skills to the other. All of these are designed to be used clipped directly to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner when belaying the lead climber, or Mar 23, 2022 · Types of belay device. BE UP KIT Combination kit with BE UP + CONCEPT SGL carabiner. A belay partner can use this device to pay out slack, pull in excess rope, or catch a climber’s fall. For more details about different types of belay devices, check out How to Choose Belay Devices. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. Mar 20, 2025 · The right belay device can mitigate risks associated with falls, providing both climbers and belayers with peace of mind. One popular traditional belay device is Multiuse belay / abseil device with innovative and compact design and it has a modular braking system to optimise braking with all types of rope. This lanyard is what you clip into, instead of tying into a traditional climbing rope. Apr 11, 2013 · In usage the device works smoothly and you belay with a similar action to a standard simple bucket/tube type belay device making it an easy transition. They all serve the same purpose: retract the belay line (sometimes known as a lanyard) as the climber climbs, protect the climber from any falls, and provide a controlled descent. Nov 29, 2022 · The higher the braking force of the belay device, the less manual force the belayer needs. It’s important to pick the right one for your style. An example of a tube-style device. Dec 22, 2023 · The Different Types of Belay Devices. 6 days ago · Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Of course, when lead climbing or top-roping, the belayer must The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. They consist of a simple tube with slots for the rope. Aug 13, 2022 · The different types of belay plates available. Whether we're belaying or rappelling, the EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device helps us maintain control when catching and lowering. 7 This specification does not address the loads generated by auto belay devices or auto belay systems. Since then, the development of belay devices has continued to evolve. Most auto belays use the same mechanism for ascension, but the mode of descent varies among different types of automatic belay devices. Tubular Belay Devices for Climbing. BE UP is a multiuse belay / abseil device with innovative and compact design and it has a modular braking system to optimise braking. If you’re looking for a list of what you need to rock climb, check out our article on the 9 items you need to start rock climbing today. Video: How to Belay a Lead Climber Look for Figure 8 and NFPA Rescue 8 descenders, rack-type descenders and specialized belay tools. Here is a good overview of the different belay There are several belay device types available, each with their own pros and cons. One type of belay device is called a tubular device or also known as ATC (Air Traffic Controller). 6 products Sort by: Safeguard (Springless) $99. A major innovation in advanced technical hardware for rope rescue professionals, the MPD allows you to go from lowering to raising without changing hardware. Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. Instead, I organize the devices into four categories and then speak about just a few exemplary devices. $22. Jan 12, 2017 · The automatic belay doesn't require a human partner and is completely controlled by the auto belay device. With a bight of rope fed through the device, it functions as a brake, so you can easily hold the weight of a climber, stopping a fall, allowing them to rest, and controlling speed as you lower them back to the ground. Learn More Single vs Double/Half/Twin ropes Types of Belay Apr 24, 2024 · Belay Device Notes. There are three main types of assisted locking belay devices on the market today. They seemed like they would replace all my other belay devices. Here are some common types of belay devices: 1. Advantages Mar 16, 2011 · For long-suffering belay slaves, the assisted-braking belay device has been one of the most welcome gear innovations of the last two decades. 8 This standard does not purport to address the safety concerns associated with the use or operation of an ACS. 5mm. Feb 22, 2020 · Inside the device you can find a long, nylon lanyard coiled tightly around a spring-loaded center spool. How many types of belay devices are there? The quick answer is that — There are three main types of belay devices used in climbing, and all three have different uses and have different functions… What are the different types of belay devices? Belay devices fall into one of two categories: Non assisted braking and Assisted braking belay devices. These double as belay devices- the same devices that are used for belaying rock climbers. Some gyms only allow belying with a belay device that has assisted braking . Another method for an Australian rappel is wearing your harness backwards and attaching the belay device there. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi As with carabiners, not all ropes will work with all devices. Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. These devices function by creating friction on the rope to control its movement. You will also need to check the rope diameter range of your device. At Rescue Tech we carry a wide variety of Rope Rescue Descenders and Belay Devices. It also works either left or right handed. U-Shaped Rescue Racks, Standard Rappel/Rescue Racks, Aluminum and Steel bars with Hyperbar options. Other gyms don’t require you to own your own belay device and will already have a belay device, like the Petzl GriGri , rigged on each top rope setup. Aug 10, 2024 · Mastering Belay Device Usage. In this post I’m going to explain the advantages, disadvantages, and helpful strategies of some of the most popular options out there. This allows a belayer to belay – we are responsible for controlling the amount of slack in the rope, holding our fellow climber’s weight, or providing a ‘catch’ in case of a fall. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. Non-assisted braking belay devices, including many tubular style devices, are fully manual. How Do Companies Manufacture Belay Devices? The manufacturing process of belay devices depends upon the type of device and brand. May 6, 2020 · Many devices have become quite use-specific, but they all follow the basic principle: the device will help you to control the flow of the rope, and therefore, help you to stop a falling climber. A modern belay device (or ‘belay plate’) can be simple: the width of a credit card, with no moving parts and light weight. Tubular belay devices are one of the most common types of devices. May 22, 2017 · There is no universal system for measuring how much force a belay device will hold when locked off, therefore it is hard to compare all the different types of belay device on the market. The added engineering in safety and assistance in braking and moving parts make this type of device the most expensive belay device, but it is the one that you will find in most climbing gyms. This device clamps the rope when under load and features a large, smooth thumb loop to release the rope easily for smooth slack payouts and lowers. Jun 9, 2023 · Discover the pros and cons of the three major types of belay devices for rock climbing: tube-style, assisted braking, and figure 8 devices. 8mm to 10. 3) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which Dec 10, 2016 · AOKWIT Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device Aluminum V-grooved Rock Climbing Belay Device Rappelling Descender Safety Equipment 4. Rescue Belay Devices. Depending on the type of climb, you will likely opt to use a different belay device at the gym than you would on a multi-pitch for example. Options. Belay techniques vary for many reasons. There are three main types of belay plates: tube devices, assisted-braking devices, and multi-purpose devices. Belay Device Style. It is important for climbers and belayers to choose the right belay device based on their skill level, climbing style, and Aug 15, 2024 · Types of Belay Devices. Jun 30, 2023 · The two main belay device types are tubular, or “tube-style,” and mechanically assisted devices. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. These are the types of belay devices that you're most like to see around the crag. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Some belay devices work better with certain carabiners. There might be more belay devices on the market than stars in the Milky Way Galaxy. Dive into the principles of back ups, assisted breaking devices, and how each device changes how to belay. But despite this major similarity, there are myriad options, each with its own set of strengths, limitations, and best uses. They can be preferred by some climbers for their easy lowering levers and simpler setup, especially if they intend to walk off rather than rappel the route (as rappelling usually requires two strands of rope). EN 15151-2:2012 type 4 Some belay devices assist the belayer into an assisted braking mechanism while others for DIY (do it yourself) personality requires locking or braking the rope manually. The most common alternative to the ATC is an auto-locking belay device. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. This review is based on months of testing with 17 of today's most popular belay devices, but it rests on a 12-year foundation that goes back to when we first started examining the product category. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. In contrast to using a classic tuber, the braking effect is therefore far less dependent on your own hand force. Belay Devices. Jun 28, 2018 · Used in conjunction with a climbing rope, common dynamic belays use tube-style devices like the Petzl Verso and Omega Pacific SBG II. Most adjustable lanyards come with a specific carabiner that is designed to work along with the metal adjuster with a planned ratio of safety : ease of adjustment. Knowing the different belay devices is key for safe climbing. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. Belay Jun 23, 2024 · There are several types of belay devices available for traditional climbing, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The method requires the solo climber to feed out an estimated length of belay rope so that they can reach their next stance and repeat the process as the rope is difficult to feed through the prusik knot while climbing. In this guide, I’ll break down the most common types of belay devices, highlight my personal favorites, and provide insights from other climbers to help you make the best choice for your needs. 99. 00 $99. 1. They are lightweight and compact, making them easy to May 19, 2022 · Your belay device will work better/worse depending on the type of rappel, the size of the rope, the terrain you’re rappelling, and the distance of the rappel. Quick view Nov 14, 2024 · Let’s delve into what belay devices are, the different types available, and tips for choosing the right one for your climbing adventures. Feb 12, 2024 · Assisted-Braking Belay/Rappel Device. An older style GriGri — an active assisted braking device; (photo/Petzl) Active Assisted Braking. Manual devices have no moving parts and are generally much cheaper, lighter and simpler to use, whilst assisted devices use a mechanism to bite the rope when it's weighted. Some popular types include tubular devices, assisted braking devices, and figure-eight devices. It has been developed especially for mountaineering and it can be used with half, twin and single ropes. Small ropes also tend to be more difficult to control and also tangle more easily. Passive devices pinch the rope between a carabiner and the belay device to stop it from sliding through. The figure 8 belay device is a piece of metal (usually an aluminum alloy) in the shape of an 8 with one large end and one small end. Non Assisted Braking. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Active devices have moving parts whereas passive devices don’t. Compare different models, features, and prices of each type. Permanently mounted auto belay devices cannot be shipped back to the manufacturer for maintenance or re-certification, so technicians must come in person for the regular inspections. We found the Dec 5, 2024 · Every multi-pitch climber needs a device for belaying the leader, a device for belaying the follower, and a device for rappelling. ATC or tubular devices. We’ll discuss the pros and cons of each type of belay device so you can find the exact one you need. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Regardless of your Feb 15, 2024 · Mechanical Devices with Guide Mode. There are many different types of belay devices, but the main categories boil down to just six types. The shape is generally tubular or rectangular. Mar 17, 2022 · Like all belay devices, the Grigri is used with climbing harnesses and climbing ropes to create a safe and efficient climbing system. Aug 26, 2021 · Both devices are basic, tube style, friction belay devices that are not assisted braking devices but can teach belayers valuable skills. Here’s a breakdown of the primary types of belay devices and their uses to help […] Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Currently, all mechanically brake assisted devices can belay one follower from above on a single rope. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Rack Type Belay. Tube-style Sometimes referred to generically as ATCs, after Black Diamond’s ATC (Air Traffic Controller), tube style belay devices are the cheapest and simplest to use, and the style that has been around the Belay devices are mechanical tools used in rock climbing and mountaineering to control the rope and provide friction, allowing the belayer to arrest the climber’s fall and control their descent. Magnetic Auto Belays: Jul 29, 2019 · What belay device I use is largely determined on what type of climbing I am doing. For a regulated descent, however, two types of braking systems are used: magnetic and friction-based. Sep 14, 2020 · However, belay devices last for years and there’s no point saving $10 now and needing an upgrade when you want to climb more than one pitch or try some trad climbing. Sep 21, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices. Rock climbing auto belays are categorized by the technology they use to control a climber's descent. Self-braking belay devices Tubular Style Belay Device. For this reason, almost every serious climber owns this device or one of its closest competitors. They can be used for belaying and rappelling, with a wide range of rope diameters, and are relatively light compared to most assisted braking devices. Moreover, in the case of the Belay devices can be categorised into manual or assisted devices. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay The majority of brake assist devices can only accommodate 1 rope. Advantages: Now, when you're in the market for a belay device, you have three main types on the menu: Tubular; Assisted braking; Figure 8; The choice of belaying devices for climbing depends on the type of climbing experience you want to have. It is mainly used for sports climbing. Many of these devices (like BD Pilot, Mammut Smart, Edelrid Jul series) lock quicker and better with a carabiner that has a more rounded top that adds more resistance (versus a carabiner with a very thin top area). 0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. These are definitely the safest devices to get and are the best choice for beginners. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay. This presents some challenges, because you’ll constantly be struggling against the rope trying to pull you back into a standard belaying position, and you risk loose clothing or items getting caught in a belay device. They either use moving parts (e. Nov 16, 2023 · Smaller isn’t always better: its small size can make it difficult to pair with a belay device, since many belay devices aren’t rated to handle a rope smaller than 8. How they manage friction and your ability to control it varies depending on the design. only Figure 8 devices is a classic belay device which has historically been extremely popular, but has since been superseded by the other types of belay devices. Clear all. Feb 6, 2023 · An Auto Belay Device is a type of automatic belay device that prevents slack in the climbing line as the climber ascends. Auto-locking or auto-assist type belay devices are not considered auto belay devices. This is a more Jul 8, 2021 · The ATC is the basic form of a belay device, however, there are other types of devices out there that are widely used by climbers. Oct 12, 2020 · Overall, there are three main types of auto belays that have been used throughout time; the hydraulic auto belay, the friction auto belay, and the newest, the magnetic auto belay. Types of Belay Devices Available. The classic. 5 days ago · Other belay devices need you to hold or pull your rappel rope at a specific angle. Various types of belay devices are available, each offering unique advantages and disadvantages. Some have more safety features added in while others are simpler to use. A high-efficiency pulley, a variable-friction descent control device and a belay device in one, the CMC MPD Descender is the result of more than nine years of research and development. 5mm, while the smaller Micro Jul is made for skinny ropes from 6. In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. Magnetic Auto Belay Devices. These tubular belay devices are like the all-around champs, fitting into any Devices like the Grigri are all a lot heavier and bigger than tube devices or figure 8s. Then embark on a short summary of how they work, where they work best, and then finish off with a few recommendations for would-be buyers. Dynamic belay devices. ALPINE UP is the most complete and versatile belay / rappel device ever produced. Tube-shaped devices 2. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. fnb aljcl lumsvxm xhrifn smuhk kte nqpn vucbv katl vnwgzey zdstq iwxshj zezsi yuseeq clwbdh