Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts.

Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts 60 ( (save $16) Jan 31, 2011 · Its all a bit give and take, pros and cons. However, this deformity is the biggest reason that we don't think brass nuts are great for everyday trad climbing. These are the most durable micro nuts in the review. Jan 26, 2013 · the DMM offsets dont last as long as regular aluminum or even brass non offset nuts IMO, not so much because the metal deforms but because the offset nature means that the wires kink VERY easily should your partner not be highly experienced in cleaning em and even then the wires still kink and theyll eventually break Dec 13, 2009 · Likes. Again, both models work really well. (They’re great if you’ve got the dough) I’d look at the two biggest BD microstoppers. • 25% OFF Orders Over $125 • DMM also produce a superlight single stem version called Halfnuts and a range of Offsets. S. However, they do mix well with the DMM Brass Offsets, fitting some cracks that DMM Brass Offsets don't. $169. The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but the others are only used on rare occasions, including when climbing on slate. Enhance your gear with DMM Brass Offsets to handle every trad climbing adventure. Aug 12, 2014 · In reply to TheHurting: I have the DMM alloy offsets which are fantastic. The way the peanuts and larger alloy ofsets run into each other is useful but I expect the brass offsets do the same. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. But just how the DMM offsets fit where an awkward square cut nut would fit, the superlights sink in where a DMM offsets would be awkward. Is this something I'm doing wrong while placing them or are they too bomber for their own good? Jul 23, 2013 · In reply to Malt_Loaf: They are worthwhile. May 13, 2009 · I've got sets of all 3 - Peanuts, Micro Wallnuts and HB Offsets. Colour coded for easy size identification. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? Jan 7, 2019 · These are one of the easier micro-sized nuts to clean and are slightly easier to remove than their closest competition, the DMM HB Brass Offset. I carry 3-4 brass offsets and 2 of the BD nuts. Arrives before Christmas. That beng said, peanuts/offset nuts dont seem all that necessary in my experience. 4-3, BD. This allows a thicker wire to be used, increasing the strength rating of each nut. For aid climbing, we wouldn't carry the Astro nuts exclusively. I’m climbing in red rock However, a partner has DMM offsets and to get something different I got BD offsets and the BD's offsets are junk. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. 95 (0) 0 Brass Offsets slot into tapered cracks - like pin scars and flared seams for protection & peace of mind. Other options May 3, 2015 · I use both the solid wildcountry offsets, as well as the DMM offsets, and they are both brilliant. That being said, they're hardly “ easy ” to clean, as their offset shape means they prefer to be backed out rather than rotated upwards for removal like more traditionally shaped non-offset nuts. DMM are only making the same sizes that HB made from alloy – sizes 7 to 11 – the smaller sizes originally made of brass, like RPs, are not currently available. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. Jul 23, 2013 · In reply to Malt_Loaf: They are worthwhile. DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. This helps them make the most of marginal placements. In the grand scheme of reviews, it's clear that the DMM Alloy Offsets have won the hearts of many climbers. Buy now at Bananafingers and enjoy free shipping on purchases over £60. 95 $ 169. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. The brass offsets were essentially unchanged apart from the removal of the plastic sheath around the wire loop. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Aug 2, 2009 · I don't think you can loose out buying either the brasses or the peanuts but check out the actual sizes first as if you want really small stuff the brasses might go smaller. g slate) and a set of peanuts for regular routes. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. For cams, I'm a big fan of offsets as well, but it depends where you climb. American that usually is aiding or climbing granite. Hence it was with real pleasure that offset-lovers heard that DMM had bought the moulds and would bring the offsets back to market. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper. If I could only buy one or the other, I'd probably stick to conventional nuts. The sizes run into the alloy offsets to nicely make up a full set. I pair them with Wild Country rocks, the curved taper fits oh-so-nice in a lot of spots. The document has moved here. As Jason said, the Peenuts are tapered, but otherwise rather conventional. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. With regards to strength in the tiny sizes, I've mostly used them to reduce run-outs on slab routes, so the strength doesn't concern me as much (although occasionally Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that Mar 2, 2010 · They fit flaring pods and pin scars fairly well but not nearly as well as the DMM Brass offsets. Value Nealy all the micro nuts we looked at were around the same price per nut Recently I got dmm offset nuts and it seems like the nuts are really prone to getting stuck even without weighting them. The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts work excellently in pin scars and small flared cracks, where the double taper resists rotating or rocking. Hurrah for DMM! Apr 26, 2017 · The DMM offsets, all the way from #0 up through the top of the range, really are awesome. Despite this, the vast majority agree that the DMM Alloy Offsets are a durable lot and can withstand considerable wear and tear. 23 results for "dmm offset nuts" DMM Brass Offsets. Covers my micro needs very well. Jun 15, 2012 · Fortunately for lovers of all things irregular DMM bought the tooling equipment for making these little beauties and in 2008 started up production - first of the larger alloy sizes, and then later of the brass micro-offsets. Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Their burly cables are far tougher than those on DMM Brass Offsets and slightly tougher than those on Astro Nuts. Small but mighty. One benefit of nuts over cams is that you can often still use a pod with a nut in the bottom, whereas a cam would make it unusable. Set #0-6 set: $144. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. DMM alloy offsets and brassies all day. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Title says it really. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. That said, I am interested in trying out these new, lighter DMM and Wild Country nuts. This combo allows me to place nuts just about anywhere. Oct 25, 2024 · These durable climbing nuts are very similar to other popular aluminum offsets available, though the red offset is a key size to complete the entire range of sizes between the largest brass offset and the smallest aluminum offsets: Rating Categories: DMM Alloy Offset: CAMP USA Pro Nut: Metolius Ultralight DMM Peenut: Black Diamond Offset Irregular is better. DMM have tweaked the original design with a few modern improvements, such as a swage thats crimped on one side only, allowing one wire to run free and keep May 9, 2024 · Others have pointed out that the wires could be thicker for added endurance. The DMM protection range is colour coded for quick and easy size selection. Apr 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. What do you think should be the next purchase? I currently climb on a set of WC Classics and the WC UL Offsets for passive (omitting my Rockcentrics and cams[WC. In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. Besides an offset shape that is tapered more or less to fit old pin scars, both of these products use a softer metal (brass or a similar copper/iron alloy) in their heads to deform to the rock and offer a better “ bite ” when weighted. I only carry offset nuts anymore. The Micro Wallnuts work pretty well on slate but aren't as good on most other rock types. Based on the famed HB (Hugh Banner) Brass Offsets, these nuts have been produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. Ideal for protecting irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, The DMM Offset Nuts boast a robust 12kN strength rating and are colour coded for ease of selection. I use them a lot at eldo, lumpy, and most other granite. • Free Shipping on Orders $100 or More Within the U. Their heads are much more durable than the DMM Brass Offsets and about the same as the Metolius Astro Nut. The Brass Offsets are based on the design of the original and popular HB Offset Nuts in a range of seven sizes, greatly increasing your placement options; particularly with flared cracks. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow The DMM Brass Offsets are a crucial tool for protecting small flared cracks, they often fit perfectly into spaces nothing else will fit into. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. Wires soldered directly into heads for strength. I’ve found them very useful in thin fairly parallel quartzite cracks. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Mar 7, 2009 · It is true that the nuts of the (first generation) DMM Alloy Offsets are wont to ride along the cable, and they are not the lightest protection out there, but they are worth having. $16. 95. I owned the DMM nuts first, and I do find a lot more bomber placements for them than the superlights. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Don't forget about our price match guarantee! The wires of IMPS and Brass Offsets are soldered directly into their heads. Jan 12, 2021 · I've been using HB and DMM offsets for years too, but still place way more regular nuts. DMM Wallnut Nut Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements. You don't really need them, but then again you don't really need cams to begin with for a lot of routes. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. Variant Weight Strength Colour Cat No; HB Brass Offset 0: 4g: 2kN: Gold: A1700: HB Brass Offset 1: 7g: 4kN: Blue: A1701: HB Brass Offset 2: 9g: 5kN: Red: A1702: HB Apr 15, 2021 · In the Lakes I normally carry doubles in 1 - 7 plus DMM offsets covering sizes 3 - 7 and I'm not sure I'm ready to part with doubles for the superlights yet, but maybe in time. The wires of IMPS and Brass Offsets are soldered directly into their heads. For those that trust the reviews outdoorgearlab has a review of the black diamond nut and the best nuts of 2022. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers -HB aluminum offsets -set of Peanuts -HB brass offsets to size 4, Moved Permanently. May 30, 2024 · As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. Add to cart-Remove. Brass heads for optimal characteristics in marginal placements Micro protection lets you protect cracks where normal siz May 3, 2015 · I use both the solid wildcountry offsets, as well as the DMM offsets, and they are both brilliant. Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. Halfnuts have similar features to Superlight Rocks and are available in 7 sizes. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Aug 2, 2009 · In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. . Brass nuts are made from a special blend of brass and silicone that is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist pulling through them. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various HB Brass Offsets are for small cracks when nothing else fits and offers passive protection in winter or wet conditions. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. But its arguable that the peanuts are more durable (they withstand being st Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. 4-3(2) +4, & Met ULMC(00-8)]. 3 Items Sort By Most Popular Product Name Price Newest first Set Descending Direction Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Moved Permanently. Their Alloy Offsets are designed to protect irregular and flared cracks that repel regular Wallnuts. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Would love a set of offsets, really liked them when climbing with a friends rack. Offset microwires perhaps, but larger placements in my experience are more forgiving. Nov 4, 2012 · Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. The head's asymmetrical taper gives us solid protection in flared cracks and pin scars, while its brass-silicone blend gives a serious bite that won't pull through. DMM have brought them back into the world and bought them up to date with colour coded sizing. Related Searches. Oct 31, 2024 · For example, the DMM HB Brass Offset proved noticeably less durable than aluminum options. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. DMM Brass Offsets At BananaFingers, the DMM Brass Offsets are your solution for small flared cracks where traditional gear may falter. These offsets are a crucial addition t o your climbing rack, offering the confidence and reliability needed to pursue even the most daunting routes. Guess it isn't super intuitive without knowing that info. Each face is slightly concave and soft enough to give more "bite" to the placement, and the addition of an aluminium swage, or keeper which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide, means that the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides making . Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. FREE delivery Dec 19 - 23. But its arguable that the peanuts are more durable (they withstand being st The DMM Climbing Brass Offset Nuts are specifically designed to bite into irregular placements like flared cracks and pin scars, slotting into placements where standard aluminum nuts struggle to fit. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. Aug 13, 2022 · If you look up why the numbering is different for the offsets, it's because they also have a separate line of brass offsets that go from 1 to 6, so they wanted the alloy offsets to go up in size from where that set finishes, hence why they start at 7. Their brass heads are designed to deform to the rock for better “bite,” hopefully increasing the nut's holding power. - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Apr 28, 2019 · If you have peanuts I don’t think brass offsets are the first thing I’d get. But, I might end up with these superlights replacing the old-style DMM offsets. It takes a bit to develop an eye Apr 26, 2022 · I want to get some more offsets and was looking at smaller/filling in sizes and would appreciate some input. For smaller ones I was going to go for DMM brass offsets but went for the Black Diamond offset micro stoppers which are a good shape and I think are slightly stronger size for size than DMM brass offsets, peenuts, IMPs. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. The breaking strength is significantly higher in comparable sizes, so they're much more confidence-inspiring for free climbing. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. Aug 12, 2015 · With regard to offset offerings, I have the DMM smallest 4 standard nuts along with all but the biggest two HB brass on a single crab, which seems to cover most situations for me. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. gjzis oreyrp ztpeaju vkrk pgfkdn pmu zqfdfsd miyeenb bcvty naz jibguk ouretx ucccss bmsjho ccl