Pla not sticking to itself. The print speed is too high.

Pla not sticking to itself Sometimes I go down to 55-58 if I suspect my bed's temp is too inaccurate Aux fan is the most common culprit, it's blowing on that side and makes it cool faster than the rest of the model, causing it to warp. He bent it, as you can see in the second photo. I've opened about In general, "more heat" is the fix for layer adhesion problems. PLA not sticking to PEI bed I’ve been trying to print various things like articulating dragons and octopus and I keep getting failed prints due to the PLA not adhering to the PEI bed. It could also seep into the mold's hollow areas. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Not all PVA’s are the same and work with every type of material the same (it also depends on the PLA or other material formulation). It won't stick to the bed. I'd recommend turning off the aux fan and maybe raise the The spool itself is labeled PLA and the QR code takes me to the Prusament PLA Prusament Galaxy Black page, so unless they spooled the wrong filament onto this spool, I'm as confident as I can be that this is PLA. Also, don’t be afraid to go a little hotter. No does not pop, smoke or sizzle. However, PLA also has some drawbacks, such as poor heat resistance, brittleness, and sensitivity to moisture. JB Weld does not stick to plastic because the adhesive is not compatible with the material. Print after print continues to stick to the FEP film rather than the build plate. Feb 16, 2024 · PLA has many advantages, such as low cost, easy printing, high strength, low thermal expansion, and good layer adhesion. Any time I try to print to this plate the filament refuses to stick in any capacity. In addition, make sure you keep your bed level and store your PLA PLA not sticking to itself is a common issue when the printing temperature is insufficient. However, this bond is not compatible with plastic What Will Epoxy Not Stick To: A Comprehensive Guide / Coating how to / By Matt L. I releveled the bed countless times, printed with bed temperatures fr If you have a new reel of PLA still packaged you can give it a try to see if things seem normal again at first. Dawn dish soap & some iso alcohol should clean it up, a clean bed As PETG not sticking to the bed can be caused by various issues, PETG vs. Hello, I received my Ultimaker 2 a few weeks ago and made some great smaller prints so far, but recently I'm working on a slightly bigger print but found that the material won't stick enough and is warping quite a bit at times. It’s curling up at the edges which causes the nozzle to catch it and screw everything up. It works great. I don't have the exact numbers for working with PLA, but try increasing your bed temp by 5c increments and see if it make any difference. Some asshole at work swapped a 5kg white PLA spool with a 5kg white PETG spool. Reply reply [deleted] • If it still won't stick, you could try turning off cooling for the first layer. You need to get the filament to melting/deformation temperature this helps it stick to the bed as it's soft you do not need a heated bed to print Pla but it helps alot. It’s my first BambuLab, but I have a few years of printer-experience with other models. But then i want to print a poop shoot for the p1p which needed supports. Its all covered in the printing tips manual. have a cr touch sensor too Archived post. Does anyone have some advice on getting the bed to hold the PLA? Share Add a Comment. The PVA is able to adhere perfectly to the build platform, and then the PLA is able to stick on top of it. I recently bought a Mars 3 and only after a week of having it, the same problems are presenting itself. It is a good practice to coat 3d printed molds with epoxy to seal then a release agent. Share Sort by: Once I had the been leveled perfectly, cleaned and the height correct the problem solved itself. It's a good thought, and I was hoping it was the case that maybe the box was mislabeled and the spool was something else. But gitting PLA to stick to a textured mini-bed is a mystery. Mon Feb 04, 2019 4:07 pm. that is not quite true: it depends on the filament and the glue - PVAc glues have a glass transition of about 65 to 75 °C and a melting point of about 85 to 95°C - so if you use the glue stick while printing with PLA at 55°C bed temperature, it will aid the adhesion, if you print ABS with 95°C The fact you tried the smooth side and it still won't stick is really odd because PETG makes an insane bond to PEI, so much so that on smooth PEI it is highly recommended to use a release agent like glue stick so you can get the PETG off the PEI without risk of damaging the PEI. As for disassembling, I get very frustrated when technology doesn't work as it's supposed to. PVA on 220°, Bed on 80°, glas plate clean and spraid with 3dlac Problem the 1st bid of the print is not The most common reason PETG fails to stick to PEI is that it the surface itself is dirty. No dark spots in the PVA indicating that moisture is the issue. When feeding it drops down straight and does not curl. Not sticking at all, let's you stop a print and save all that plastic you didn't use. On my ender my bed temp was 60 degrees celsius. Increase Your Printing Temperature. This helps a lot. However, this bond is not compatible with plastic materials. Bought one myself, learned the hard way. This PLA not sticking to itself is a common issue when the printing temperature is insufficient. I wouldn't look at a new print surface until trying all these. I also Lower printing speeds at first layers,your temps are fine i use the same for pla,use a bit of gluestick only,if its a thick layer better clean it with some water,make sure your bed is clean and doesnt have fingerprints etc,leveling the bed is 90% the problem,look up creality's vid on youtube for leveling and follow the tutorial step by step and you will be good to go!! Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. Did quite a few cold pulls as described in the wiki; Cleaned PLA residues off the nozzle with some alcohol wipers. Last use a glue stick. 5. From there your bed could be closer. I'm not a master of ABS, but I think you should look into what bed types work best for ABS, and consider using it. One time I had this happen to me. Use a Raft or Brim. I installed the silicone mod below the plate to stabelize it and have very low tollerances of less than 0. than he took a mirrored print, saturated it in clear varnish, waited, until it has been dry enough to touch and than use a hairdryer to heat it up and pressed the print onto the toycar. Petg is sticky and sometimes you can chew up pei and glass beds if you leave petg Pla not sticking to the bed. Printed to this plate without issue for months and then seemingly it all of a sudden stopped working all together. But yeah, your nozzle is way too high off the build plate. I have also found that PLA likes to stick to itself so getting a wire brush to clean the nozzle (while heated Finally solved the issue with the print not sticking to the build plate Now I've got a new issue, filament isn't sticking to itself? PLA, 195/60. Why is PLA Not Sticking to PEI Sheet? In most cases, PLA has difficulty sticking to a dirty PEI sheet. Printer is in a closed environment with multiple moisture absorbing bags. It refuses to stick to the bed, curling up around the nozzle instead. the glue stick isn't as much to aid adhesion, as it is to protect the bed as a barrier layer that can be also adhered to. This doesn't work worth anything. Heres the weird part. Try not to touch the print surface with your hands after you wash it. The main reason behind PLA’s popularity is its ease of use. Since yesterday evening, nothing is sticking to the bed properly anymore. I thought it was the brand of PLA. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. So I tried it and am satisfied. If only I knew what I know now, I would have saved the $100 and considered myself lucky. They're telling you to use it because replacing the cold plate is more expensive than The textured sheet is for highly sticky stuff, like PETG. The nozzle starts too far from the bed. If you’re printing PLA, open the top and front. Try to get your hands on some BVOH. Got that solved using blue tape (no way can I make it stick to glass, but that is not the issue here (I think)). Just to be sure it's not moisture-related, I ran it through my filament dryer (6 hrs @ 60C) and it did not improve. I got the wham bam because my prints were sticking TOO WELL with the stock bed surface and I was getting a little annoyed at what a pain it was to remove them. good morning all anybody got any advise on following; working on the 1st trials and trying to get to understand all settings. 05 to 0. the result looked like it has been printed directly on the toycar. I mainly use aftermarket filament (Elegoo, material4print), but the Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Reply reply but I have only tried glue stick so far on the plate itself. 28mm Material: CC3D Silk Blue PLA Print Temps: 200C and 60C Retraction: 6. (not needed for textured) Energetic also makes quality PEI sheets. PLA and ASA both like the smooth sheet. In the wipe tower, use PETG for your wipe tower tool. If your PLA is not sticking to a PEI surface, chances are, you can solve the issue by cleaning it and by adjusting first-layer (Live-Z) calibration. that is not quite true: it depends on the filament and the glue - PVAc glues have a glass transition of about 65 to 75 °C and a melting point of about 85 to 95°C - so if you use the glue stick while printing with PLA at 55°C bed temperature, it will aid the adhesion, if you print ABS with 95°C And I had to get my nozzle even closer to the bed (I am using BlTouch, so it was very easy to do) so you may try to level your bed a bit closer. The filament will occasionally just blob up and get dragged around by the nozzle. I went over to the hardware store, and picked up a 9-1/4"x 9-1/4" sheet of glass, and I'm using it now as the print bed. 2 mm] which is recommended by both creators. 1 mm in total. Here is a list of what I have already checked / done in an effort to resolve the issue: Replace / Clean the nozzle; Replace the Hey, I have recently gotten a Robo 3D R1, I had a few problems with the plastic sticking to the bed, but I fixed those with hairspray. I also suggest cleaning the glass bed with pure alcohol to make sure it leaves no residues. However, there are some other reasons you might run into issues. Since the location of the part where the curling is happening, is not supposed to have any contact to the build plate, the utilization of tape and glue sticks are not a point here. Answer is simple, reduce the extrusion temps of your actual PLA print and the support material setting temp. PLA with a bed temp of 100°C 100C is way, way too high for PLA. Sort by: Best. For PLA and PETG, plain PEI is ideal. Taking PLA up to 210 on most hot ends Great layer adhesion with no fussing with settings. This spool has lived in its original zipped bag with indicating desiccant (still shows dry) since opening, only printed a couple times. Overbonding creates a massive waste of plastic if you can't save the part. 75 in black, and the first little things (without supports) works also ok. Oil stains on the build plate; 3. Full calibration each time. 3. 84, first layer speed at 30mm/s. If your PLA is not sticking to the bed, consider changing the z-offset, adjusting the slicer settings, using bed adhesion, and swapping out your build plate. Also, for Sovol specific advice the Sovol Hi there, I have a new P1S with AMS set up since saturday. Also there are pla filaments that require a hotter bed temperature and 55c is enough with a little of glue stick or wet glue from bambulab. Top. I've seen advice before to use a #000 steel wool pad on pc or PEI sheets, such as made by Wham Bam and the like. The first layer cools RE: First prints - not sticking to bed enough. I've recently got a few rolls of matte filament (Polyterra and Overture) to print some things for the small business the wife and I are working on starting up. So, why is PLA not sticking to the glass bed, and what should you do to fix it? There could be a multitude of reasons behind PLA not sticking to the glass bed. 4. Jan 19, 2023 · Today, we will be discussing the issue of PLA filament not sticking to painter’s tape, also known as blue tape, a material that 3D printing enthusiasts commonly use to create an extra layer between the plastic and the build plate May 17, 2016 · Hey, I have recently gotten a Robo 3D R1, I had a few problems with the plastic sticking to the bed, but I fixed those with hairspray. first The Roll says Bed 25 to 60C, Nozzle 190 to 220C. Interestingly it seems like the rest of the layer adheres pretty well to the cool plate with the glue stick, just not the initial wall's extrusion for each object. Open comment sort options. he than rubbed the paper away with water. Prints always fail on the first layer. I also had a thermistor wire come loose, I Set your z offset to a slightly positive value (0. So, anything special I might need to try? edit :sigh: I rang my PLA should squish a little on the first layer so maybe you are calibrated too high. If you're having problems at that temp it's likely a z-offset issue. The PVA is able to adhere perfectly to the build platform, and then the PLA is able to Oct 19, 2023 · Used the glue stick. Set Your Z-Offset Value Correctly. The smooth transition of a fillet makes for an easy starting point for pulling I've never had issues with adhesion, and can still print standard PLA with no issue. New Assuming PLA: Set Generally you don't go higher than 60 for PLA because the idea is if you go above the glass temp point of PLA, it is more likely to release from the bed, not less. If it is not humidity then others seem to be giving you some good Hi everyone. I designed and built printers from the ground up. Level the Print Bed. Couldnt get PLA to stick on the smooth side. The adhesion of the print bed surface itself is also important. One of the most common issues that PLA users face is the problem of PLA not sticking to the bed. Posted by u/Slimocliff - 3 votes and 9 comments. Using the filament PLA-cf that came with the printer. There are some filaments that may require blue tape or gluestick to either prevent fusing prints to the bed, or aid in adhesion because some, like nylon, do not adhere well. Try upping your nozzle temperature to 205°C and bed to 65°C The filament dragging around, you can try to quickly catch with a popsicle stick or similar wooden implement, right at the beginning, when the nozzle starts at the beginning the combination PLA/PVA worked like a charm, now im having adhesion problems (PVA printing on top of a PLA layer). Printed a temp tower yesterday with no problems, but now I can’t get them to stick. PLA really has to be motivated to stick to PETG. Don't use the extrusion fan on the first layer. I have just changed the PTFE tube to the Capricorn upgraded PTFE tube and a duel gear drive extruder. the first layers If you have tried using glue on it make sure you wash all of that off as that itself can make it not stick. And he can't. I couldn’t figure out why my PLA wasn’t sticking to the bed. The one other (oddball) time that it wasn’t that the problem stumped me for days When printing with PLA in 3D printing, there can be issues with the PLA not sticking to the build plate. Now my 2+ prints fine. PLA+ likes things a little hotter than plain PLA. Share Sort by: Printer: Ender 3 Pro Print Speed: 40 mm/s Print Height: . I've been printing for about 4 years. Check Your Bed Isn't When the PLA does not stick to the bed, try to increasing the temperature, usually between 50-70°C is recommended. 3mm and first layer width at . Having problems with P1P prints not sticking to bed. The material doesn’t require a heated bed, but if your printer has one, heat it to about 60°C I print pla+ all the time with a 70 degree room, 60 degree bed, and, yes, 220 for the filament itself. Ideal conditions for PLA vary from 180°C to 230°C. Dry it with papel towel. 2mm, 55mm/s on Cura, support density 10% Share Add a Comment. I gluesticked the entire bed. Z1spresso jx pro grind time Print not sticking to half of the build plate - Any advice? Details in comment i have seen a technique on youtube where a guy painted a toycar with clear varnish. Here's what we've tried so far: There's a big cult following online claiming glue helps adhesion, when usually it's the opposite. Printed temp tower(s) (190-240) and the layers just don't stick together. Even your finger oils can cause this. i know obvious answer but solves my problem with pla not sticking. Initially when switching to the sunlu PLA+, it didn't stick to the bed at ALL, so I upped the bed temp to 60 (it was printing fine at 45 before, my printer's on the 2nd floor and ambient temps are ~70F here) and did the initial layer at 215 degrees which stuck just fine. And I had to get my nozzle even closer to the bed (I am using BlTouch, so it was very easy to do) so you may try to level your bed a bit closer. It wasn’t PLA. The lettering etched itself into the plate and is permanently embossed into the plate now. 6. The glass bed is not clean. and I use glue stick and level it higher than usual to get better squish. . Do not do that in a oven! There are devices out there for doing this but read up on it. Sort by: Ideally, the PVA serves as an interface between the PLA supports and the PLA piece. That said. The print speed is too high. Looks quite Aug 31, 2024 · Model Not Sticking to the Build Plate. That's what's causing it to curl up and peel off. We have 5 MK3 and I got an MMU2 to work. The A1 is open so ambient will effect you more then enclosed case printers If you have correct squish and a bad level you get issues if you have a good level and not enough squish you also have issues. I’m new to 3D printing and I have an Ender 3 KE. Cause: 1. I’ve ended up using modifiers in PrusaSlicer to slow down where the PLA and PETG meet. Used the glue stick, let it dry. Consider using a PEI-coated build Jan 26, 2018 · Next, you asked on the PLA and PLA support print, how to better reduce the bond to the support. Not sure whats going on with the sheets, most likely different from brand to brand It's an issue with the bed, you'll need to use Painters Tape to get anything to stick to the darn thing. Getting an issue with all parts not sticking to the bed during printing. Filament type: 1. Works great for me. I chose this printer because it's supposed to work without user-tinkering. With the right temps, z-offset and speed, the filament sticks like crazy to the plate without any messy glue stuff. Even during calibration it gets loose and rounds up around the nozzle. Dusty, dirty, oily bed. I'm printing PLA with the cold plate at 45 deg C with glue stick. Hi there, I'm trying a few prints that use PVA as the dense infill. 04mm closer made a difference between sticking and not sticking. Over those years, I bought various other brand and put them on the shelf for when the original brand ran out (which is now). So, sticks badly everywhere. Did not work and cleaned the plate again. Arguable. Yesterday, a print failed middle print and I stopped it because I was getting spaghettis. My prints were going fine last Friday, and I came back to printing today (Monday) and now While the bed itself may be up to 60, the heat may not have made it through the glass and PEI at the the edges yet. Works for me. Here's what we've tried so far: Clean the bed with water and dishwasher soap. The pla cold bed. The best solution that works for most people experiencing this issue is to increase your printing/nozzle temperature. The roll says to print at 70c, and flashprint even defaults to it, but changing it to 90c made it stick so incredibly well. Are you talking about pieces coming loose during printing or literally the initial lines don’t stick at all? Plus we're talking prints wont even stick in the first layer. I had this issue with a lot of my more detailed and taller prints with mine. There's a big cult following online claiming glue helps adhesion, when usually it's the opposite. I take a piece of paper and calibrate it so there just a little, but not too much, friction. I don't think that's really the issue. Have wiped the bed really good, a couple of times, with isopropyl alcohol, but it doesn’t help. Silicone Adhesives: While silicone itself is a non-stick surface, silicone-based adhesives can bond to silicone and It has the Bambu Lab Silk PLA gold lettering. The nozzle starts too close to the bed. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Then clean again with rubbing alcohol 70% or up. The PLA sparkle part of the print pulled away from the plate with absolutely no issue. Question imgur. Read on to find out how to get those layers to stick! All3DP; All3DP Pro; Printables Basics Buyer's Guides News. Members Online. Other than that I'd you have printed with pla and not like super cleaned your bed there is a good chance the petg just won't stick at all. sometime, this problem occur, PLA won't stick at specific spot, like, only that place and many time, i just take a break from frustration and the next day, it fix itself? i already clean it with 90% alcohol, and even that is too clean the PLA won't stick for the first time (sometime), i restart the print to make it stick. It needs to The first few prints I’m trying the filament does not stick to the bed. Not a single issue getting it to stick. The material doesn’t require a heated bed, but if your printer has one, heat it to about 60°C How to Fix PLA Not Sticking to Bed? 1. PLA should squish a little on the first layer so maybe you are calibrated too high. Bond between layers is affected by 2 simple factors- nozzle gap to previous layer and temperature of extrusion. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. I do use hairspray on the scoured bed and have had no problems with sticking or release in various pla and petg filaments. Yes. Wasn't cold enough to run the furnace, but temps lowered enough to prevent PLA prints sticking. After that fail, all my prints are I kept having this problem on the original Mars, especially later in its life. is it related to hardware problems or is just the PVA filament is affected somehow by humidity (i store my PVA spool on a ziplock bag and TONS of Silica bags) I've searched around and have not come across much (if any) discussion about this type of issue. I got it 3 days ago, and the firsts prints looks fantastic (Banshee, some little technical clips and and moveable crocodile). I’ve printed PLA and TPU using Creality Print default settings ans Prusa Slicer with custom settings found on Reddit. Though the petg will get very stuck if you don't use the hairspray. I'm really not big on doing my own repairs and hence I'm not comfortable with it. I've print 100 parts a week, for 8 years on many different printers. I bought some Sunlu silk pla+ and I just can't get it to work. The thinner the part the more obvious the issue and part will loosen off the bed and fly off. 5 mm Layers not fusing First my prints didn't want to stick to the glass in neither of my printers. The glass bed is not level. do absolutely stick to PLA and to a lesser extent to PETG. My bed was leveled prior to switching the PLA also. My solution is to put the first layer at . 50-60C bed temp for PLA. I -Washed it -Z offset -leveling Would just not stick. It worked just fine for the past 2 weeks. All my prints were perfect. With a PEI plate, you should not ever need glue for PETG or PLA. Try upping your nozzle temperature to 205°C and bed to 65°C The filament dragging around, you can try to quickly catch with a popsicle stick or similar wooden implement, right at the beginning, when the nozzle starts Ideally, the PVA serves as an interface between the PLA supports and the PLA piece. Build plate damaged or severe wear, resulting in an uneven surface; 2. Give us a bit more info on it not sticking to the bed. PLA not sticking to the print bed (Easythreed X1 Mini) Question Seconding what was said before, leaving filament in the hotend is fine as long as the printer is still left on to cool itself after a print for a few minutes before shutting it off. Another PLA prints perfectly fine. Try a bed temp between 55-60°C for PLA (you set this in the slicer you’re using, btw), use the included glue stick (you might have to give it a good squeeze so that you can actually see the adhesive on the surface), level your bed routinely and make sure to use a brim if you’re printing any particularly small parts. The material doesn’t require a heated bed, but if your printer has one, heat it to about 60°C to improve adhesion. Quite messy on the PEI plate. Maybe. Oils and dust also stop the filament from sticking. 4 mm nozzle size and a layer height of 0. Heat the bed to around around 65C for PLA. Improper distance after leveling; For example, for PLA filament, set PLA not sticking to itself is a common issue when the printing temperature is insufficient. i switched to single spool top mount and changed filament as well as print [layercake’s parametric container done in Fusion 360] which turned out much beefier than the previous prints and with the same settings as above prints [0. This stuff is expensive but it is THE water soluble material imo. Are you talking about pieces coming loose during printing or literally the initial lines don’t stick at all? Used the glue stick, let it dry. But not the 2+ extended printer, the layers of filament don't stick to one another (see picture). Understanding Epoxy Adhesion Issues. tried everything. I have a problem where the PLA extruded will curl up and stick to the nozzle, blobbing up and not sticking to the bed as a result. I read silk pla is less durable but this seems ridiculous. Been there done that. Hey Guys, i have an Problem with my new P1P. Increase Your Bed Temperature. Best. 5 Quality settings /r/Coffee is back - for now - and talking about itself, in addition to coffee. Printables; Basics; Buyer's Guides; News; Get It 3D Printed Source: jespoirinfinity via Imgur. Im solely using the coated side for PLA. More . Also, ASA almost needs an enclosure to maintain temp, or it will crack or lift off. We've had success when all the supports are in PVA. Your filament needs to be melted enough to adhere to each other properly, so a hi The main issue is that an entire layer does not bind to the one below it at times during the print. Don't use glue stick with PLA and those nice PEI plates. It's Pla based, so I would assume it would print fairly standard, which is whats shown by the data sheets for it. Make sure you are printing at 30% speed for first layer. Anyway, here are the answers to the "post information" sticky. I print a lot of PETg and PLA. Prints not sticking can be a few things. Thats how the printer is designed. Reply reply Wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol. I can break off the "temp floors" like a dry twig. The issue we're encountering is getting the PVA to adhere to the PLA. Upped bed temps to 60c from default 55 in P1S. It does stick badly to PLA but as can seen on the photos worse on the bed itself. That leaves you with a hot center where things stick OK, and cooler edges that warp. This I print pla+ all the time with a 70 degree room, 60 degree bed, and, yes, 220 for the filament itself. Chris1974 January 17, 2024, 2:04pm 12. Problem solved. JB Weld is made of epoxy resin and a hardener, which create a strong bond when mixed together. It's almost as if Bambu have taken the cold plate, done a whooooole bunch of testing, and come to the conclusion that glue stick is recommended to stop PLA destroying the bed. I bought a sample roll of some glow filament. 75 mm white PLA from sainsmart Feb 4, 2019 · PVA not sticking to PLA. Everything looks fine during the print but the temptower itself is very brittle. This stuff does not want to stick to any build plate I have. But the ABS I used years ago around 2018 was pretty good to I bought the PEO/PEI build plate from Amazon and initially the printing was fantastic. I have created a ticket with Bambu, but no idea when they They seem to be pealing off after getting printed or just aren’t sticking- Layer height . You don’t want the chamber warm. Using acetone to remove any stuck leftover filament before wiping it down with IPA and a microfiber (or similarly soft) cloth will get the I have been experiencing some pretty extreme first layer adhesion issues. As printing with PLA doesn’t require high AS per title. 2. Someone else on a different forum stated 75C bed and nozzle at 235, and this is working great for me. 10mm) to address the sticking issue. Slower speed and heat will make more of a difference. PLA Layer Adhesion: Which Is Better? While bed adhesion is much simpler with PLA, PETG is undeniably the best choice if you need strong layer adhesion. Sometimes, my filament does not even stick to the build plate (printing on a P1S with the textured PEI build plate). The prime lines that Printing with Pla, 215/65, 15% infill, 1. They're not telling you to use glue to make you buy their bog standard glue sticks. Seemingly coinciding with an update. I was able to get one simple print to stick with a raft, but only then. If it is humidity you will have to 'bake' the filament to remove the moisture. Ideally, the PVA serves as an interface between the PLA supports and the PLA piece. For pla, I strongly recommend the official borosilicate glass bed from creality's Amazon store, it's not expensive, and it's saved me from releveling and adhesion issues entirely. I've tried Rough PEI, Smooth PEI, and build tak. Just for reference, 0. Other then needing to use a glue stick to get stuff to stick to it, it's fine. The build palte is not not warped. If think this works best because PLA is Lastly, consider your bed itself. Have another P1P that prints with the same settings without problems (200 degress extruder, 65 degrees on bed). problem is, if lastly, a message i received on slicer. Using Bambu basic PLA. Using PETG on a smooth sheet is not recommended because it will grip so hard it may not even come off so pick up a smooth or maybe satin sheet from Prusa. In the process of many users trying to print, the melted material was taken away by the moving nozzle, PLA not sticking to After a few months it is becoming more common that the PLA is not sticking to the bed on the first layer and i just can't get a print down anymore, cleaned the bed with some mentholated spirits but didn't seem to help. Thanks for the reply and links. I changed my filament to geeetech pla 1. I’m trying to get a solution to the PLA not sticking, working around the issue is not a solution but just a bodge. (I typically use Tianse PLA) I'm printing at 60C bed heat, and 190, 200, 210, 220, and 230C nozzle temperature, with no success anywhere. Depending on the specific circumstances, this can mean: Is this silk PLA you're using? Silk PLA is known to require higher nozzle temperatures than regular PLA. I also had a thermistor wire come loose, I contacted support, and got a new one. com Open. I turned the sheet from smooth to coated, it sticks. What I have tried: It is unlikely to bond to the PLA however it will trap itself in all the layer line. juyz wyrhddk xaiw tyzc pxl kiwqifza guhuljp bqpzlk kcesn ebbb